On 9/15 we departed Ullapool to continue the northerly drive on more of the spacious highland roadways. Our home for the next 4 days would be the Orkney Islands, a chain of islands located off the northern tip of Scotland. Unexpectedly, our time in the Orkneys turned out to be the highlight of Scotland for us. Prior to our arrival, we had only a slight appreciation to the history, particularly Neolithic, that took place on this remote chain of islands in the North Sea. This would soon change as we visited and learned about the local prehistoric sites. We landed on Mainland Island after a rough and foggy ferry ride. The heavy fog continued as we departed the ferry for our B&B, making it difficult to see the edge and lanes markings on the road. Thankfully, unlike the Highlanders, the Orcadians believe in the popular theory that two lanes make a road. We settled into our cozy home for the next few days and made a plan for our time in the Orkneys.
Our first glance out the windows in the morning unveiled a rainbow – it seemed like a good omen. Excited about the improving weather we headed out to visit the prehistoric sites of Orkney.
5,000 years ago Orkney had a population of 30,000 people which is larger than the current day population of the islands. For a point of reference; the pyramids of Giza were built around 2500 BC and Stonehenge was built around 2100 BC.
Maeshowe – built around 3500 BC without the use metal tools or wood as the Orkney islands were cleared of trees 10,000 years ago. Maeshowe is an unassuming structure when first seen from the exterior, but incredibly impressive once inside. Maeshowe was built using large red sandstone blocks weighing up to 30 tons, which were mined 9 miles from the site. The most common theory is the Neolithic people used seaweed to lubricate and move the blocks from the quarry to the build site. The 2 ton stone door was still operating in original form until recently, when it was sealed to ensure tourists didn’t smash fingers. The older locals can still remember playing in Maeshowe and operating the door as kids. The exact purpose of Maeshowe is not known for certain but the most accepted theory being it was built as a place of ancestor worship. Whatever the purpose, the care and ingenuity the Neolithic people, whose average life span was 28 years, took in constructing Maeshowe is still seen and felt today. Standing inside the ancient domed structure we were awed and amazed by the Neolithic people’s engineering skills and care taken in building Maeshowe.
In the 12th century, 100 Vikings spent 3 cramped days inside Maeshowe waiting out a storm, leaving multiple engravings (some vulgar and hilarious) on the sandstone blocks inside. No photos were allowed inside Maeshowe.
Skara Brae – a well preserved Neolithic village built around 3100 BC complete with a working subterranean sewer system. The site was uncovered by a storm in 1850 and is still today an active archeological dig site.
Standing Stones of Stenness – built around 3100 BC, these standing stones are the oldest in the British Isles.
Ring of Brodgar – built around 2600 BC and encompassing over 100 yards. For those wondering, we did not hear voices or time travel when standing inside the stone circles…
Discovered in 2003, the Ness of Brodgar has the potential to rewrite the known history of the Neolithic people. Already discovered in the site are shards of scored pottery which were originally thought to be brought to the UK by the Romans centuries later. The dig site was closed for the season during our visit but it will be very interesting to follow along with the discoveries found at the site. From an article about the Ness of Brodgar; “This is almost on the scale of some of the great classical sites in the Mediterranean, like the Acropolis in Greece, except these structures are 2,500 years older. Like the Acropolis, this was built to dominate the landscape—to impress, awe, inspire, perhaps even intimidate anyone who saw it. The people who built this thing had big ideas. They were out to make a statement.” http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2014/08/neolithic-orkney/smith-text
Taking advantage of the warm shining sun on our last full day on the island we visited the Brough of Birsay, an island only accessible at low tide with a small Pict turned Norse village and stunning views of the North Sea. We explored the cliffs, mesmerized by the waves, and spent the afternoon relaxing at a beach filled with shells and other washed up treasures for Lindsay to search through.
Distance from Seattle: 4305 miles
Now Reading…. Chad: The Eternal Frontier: An Ecological History of North America and it’s People, by Tim Flannery; Lindsay: The Tsar of Love and Techno, by Anthony Marra
A Forever of Nows 